A WORD OF ADVICE

And to sum up this incredible, often exhilarating, certain time disheartening, journey, a few words of advice for anyone doing the MongolRally2009 and beyond.

A) Get a Micra. Full stop. It might look small, maybe does not sounds right on paper (Mongolia on a Micra) but the little thing goes and goes. The people we met, and we are also talking of teams of 3, managed to finish the race with the original suspensions, without sump guards and on a great mileage per liter.

B) If, for other reasons, you prefer to use an old veteran like we did, avoid overspending on a complete overhual and concentrate on the few problematic areas: suspensions, suspensions and suspensions, raise the car and get a thick and wide sump guard. Another thing you might need is an extra head gasket or two, for you or other teams that you will meet along the way.

Pack light, as you will need minimal amount of clothes. A small bucket and a cloth line in the car will let you wash and dry everything in a few hours. Mongolia is really cold, it can get subzero at night even at the end of August, so make sure you have a few layers of thermal clothing (pants included) and a good wind-stopper.

Play dumb with policemen, speak only your own language or really fast (if English). If things get annoying, tell them you are calling your embassy. Other than that, be patient at borders – most will take half a day or more.

Plan your visas wisely, as we met more than one team either stuck in between borders or forced to backtrack to renew them – see our old post VISA VS VISA

But most important, have plenty of fun along the way, it is going to be memorable!

ULAAN BAATAR - MONGOLIA 0 KM (total 12993)

Car has been loaded in a container, ready to be shipped back to Italy,and we are about to leave too - taking off tomorrow. Bringing back a lot of memories of random kindness and certified crooks, slow customs officers fond of red tape, one shashlik too much, rice, dust, non-stop rain and teas.

A fond word of farewell to all the great teams we met along the way that were always ready to help and wait each time we had trouble: The Professionals aka Tom&Jerry; Soyombo racers, our fav and fab Irish/English ladies; No Mean Fiat, masters of backgammon; our hermanos bascos Bilbo-Mongolia; the London-based, Belgium-raised Stella Performa; fellow-R4-isti, same car, same pain, aMongoliaPaque.

ULAAN BAATAR - MONGOLIA 430 KM (total 12993)

WE.MADE.IT.

Despite missing sump guard, patched-up engine block, busted suspenions, bad fuel, and even snow this morning we are in UB!

End of note.Going for beers.Write later.

ARVAIKHEER - MONGOLIA 110 km (total 12563)

And when roads finally became smooth tarmac surfaces, tragedy struck. We lost the sump guard and at the same time we pierced, well, what it was supposed to guard: the base of the engine block. Luckly it happened in town, where a backyard mechanic, with the help of glue and what looked like dirty rags, managed to seal it and assured us it will take us to UB, just 400 km away.

ON THE WAY TO ARVAIKHEER - MONGOLIA 226 km (total 12453)

After a short illusion of a 10 km tarmac road, we are back to the usual Mongolian package - dust, sand traps and constant breakdowns shared among all the teams of the convoy - except the unstoppable Micra.

WESTERN GOBI - MONGOLIA 273 km (total 12227)

Finally the desert! Amazingly fast tracks in the first half, until we lost a rear spring. Dust, sand and sun all the way.

ALTAY - MONGOLIA 255 km (total 11954)

Landscape got flat-and a bit dull, but roads condition has not changed much, long bumpy stretches at 30 km/h. Stopped at a mechanic shop and found a very sad site - a deposit for all the Mongol Rally cars that broke down and could not continue the journey. Honor to them, but it did not stop Loris from cannibalizing a set of front shock from another R4 with a broken chassis. Thanks, team Rioja 08.

ON THE WAY TO ALTAY 252 km (total 11699)

Loris suddenly discovered his 'inner mechanic' and managed to fix the suspensions and replace the tire.

The convoy is growing, rejoined by Bilbo Mongolia and another R4! Camping again in the middle of the wind-swept steppes. Another 700 km to go before finding another bit of tarmac.

KHOVD – MONGOLIA 246 km (total 11447 km)

By now you know Mongolia has not exactly a network of real roads, just a lot of dirt tracks, plus plenty of river crossing. Which results in a stunning average of 30 km/h. Great for sightseeing, less so if you are till over 1400 km from you final destination.

Despite all this, R4 is surprisingly back to normal and ran without a single glitch for the whole day. Let’s see how it will handle the road to Altai, 400+ km from our current stop.

OLGIY - MONGOLIA 97 km (total 11201 km)

After the coldest night and brigthtest morning ever, we finally made in to town, towed most of the way by a local car (which broke down too, twice). Thermostat is definitively gone and cannot be replaced, and a less-than-competent mechanic did a less-than-ideal job. On top of it, gasket is about to say goodbye. But we will reach Ulann Baatar, no matter what!

ON THE WAY TO OLGIY - MONGOLIA 252 km (total 11104)

We made it to Mongolia. No road, no signs, and the thermostat is gone. So finally we are camping, in the middle of nowhere, at 2450 meters and close to freezing temperature, but who cares - it is really fun!

TAKASH - RUSSIA 633 km (total 10852)

Ok,we can't read maps very well - border was 800km away, not 500, so we stopped earlier, and the only accommodation we could find is a mix between a garage and a kennel.

But the drive here was one of the best ever. Nice twisting roads surrounded by green fields, high peaks and the usual traffic-challenged cows. The Altai mountains are really a Swiss-like corner of Siberia.


Tomorrow a quick drive to the border and stop shortly after that to try to regroup with a few teams.

BARNAUL - RUSSIA 472 km (total 10219)

Finally in Siberia. Further drop in temperature, but back to paved roads, sort of clear signs and corrupted (but cheap) cops.

Met and had dinner and drinks with another team, Stella Performa, who got here via the central route, pretty adventurous too.

We are now just 500 km away from Mongolia, tomorrow night the real Mongol Rally will finally start!

SEMEY - KAZAKHSTAN 685 km (total 9747)

Complete change of landscape - trees, grass, horses and a chance of people too, as the majority around here are ethnic Russians.

We are now in Semey, a place known for its intellectual past and for being,unfortunately,one of the most radioactive cities on the planet. During the USSR time they exploded over 460 warheads in 50 years a few hundreds km from here.

We could not find a single map of Siberia, so will just use a sketch we made based on google maps. We were also waiting for a few others team to convoy, but they all broke down on the way here...

POVLODAR - KAZAKHSTAN 685 km (total 9379)

We took the detour to Astana, and it was worth it - a showcase city, nice roads to and from. Weather finally turned cold and wet, a perfect introduction to Russia, just around the corner from here.

Tonight another stop in the nth soviet flavoured Kazak town.

As a plus on the R4, all the dashboard lights, which did not work since Loris purchased the car, are now all glowing again.

KARAGANDA - KAZAKHSTAN 432 km (total 8694)

Mechanics, mechanics and more mechanics - spent at least half a day looking for parts or getting them fixed-latest were two rims badly bent.

The more we move north and the more the cities get a stronger Russian flavour, including statues of Lenin and golden domes. Karaganda is no exception, nor is the hotel we are staying, Shaika.

Main question now is: should we detour via Astana or move east as original plan?

BALKASH - KAZAKHSTAN 543 km (total 8262 km)

The front suspension saga is taking a strange bend, literally. Had to resort to use a plyer to shorten both mud guards, and now we are back in another town, looking for a reliable and competent mechanic, an almost mythological figure so far.

In our quest, we had to split up with the others teams we have been convoying with, with plans to meet up again before the Russian border.

Balkash is a lovely town by a lake, with a distinctive note given by soviet architecture. Met a fellow Italian, a geologist who has been living here for the last 14 years, surprised to see an R4 so far.

SHU - KAZAKHSTAN 475 km (total 7722 km)

A rather forgetful Loris left everything open - jerry can, water tank. R4 was flooded with oil and water, smelt like a sunk oil tanker.

Went to the 6th mechanic to check if anything could be done for the suspension - nothing much to do, but we were offered a tasty smoked catfish as a consolation. Watch this space for some extreme solutions in the next few days.

Spending the night in Shu, after a dinner at the local disco-restaurant, where they played an eclectic mix of Kazak pop and Italian 70s hits.

SHYMTEK - KAZAKHSTAN 481 km (total 7247 km)

We left Samarkhanda after seeing what must have been the coolest entry of the Mongol Rally, ever - the red double-decker of the Kremlin team.

We did learn how to read maps, and we crossed the Kazak border in the afternoon, and got the usual package, tips, money, visa, car, 10 different counters and 10 different stamps.

Staying over in Shymkent, in a rather suspicious hotel...

SAMARKHANDA - UZBEKISTAN 0 km (total 6766 km)

Full day in Samarkanda - madrasas, markets and lots of Plov, the local variation of the staple dish of the area: rice, meat, raisins and more rice. Really loved the city, such a pity we have to leave tomorrow.

We got update that there is only one open border to cross into Kazasthan - and it takes at least 8 hours. But first we have to find it, as out GPS was stolen and we are back to maps and compass (and you all know we are both really hopeless).

SAMARKHANDA - UZBEKISTAN 287 km (total 6766 km)

Had the whole morning to go around Bukhara - stunning. It seems it has stayed close to its tradition of crossing points, as we met a lot of people travelling overland, taking trains and buses or driving back to Europe.

We reached Samarkhanda later this evening, for the last tourist, historical stop before heading north into the Unknown Kazakhstan.

BUKHARA – UZBEKISTAN 0 km (6479 km)

And so this morning we went for service at local Daewoo center. We were positively impressed, as they opened the place just for us, being Sunday. We were less impressed after they struggled on the poor car for two hours, and turned up that all the people there weren't mechanics but the security guards! A big thank you to the owner of Minfiza hotel for taking us around town, looking for a real mechanic. It seems the R4 is back on the road. Spent the rest of the day walking around Bukhara and doing the usual rounds of shopping for all our demanding friends back home…

BUKHARA – UZBEKISTAN 422 km (6479 km)

9th August 2008

False alarm was not a false alarm after all. Front suspension is gone, and rear is following shortly. Drove for most of the journey with a symphony of scrapings tires and busted springs, but managed to reach Bukhara, a far cry from the slightly paranoid Turkmenistan. Car badly needs a mechanic, so we will be around here for at least two days.

MARY - TURKMENISTAN 367 km (total 6057km)

False alarm. Felt like both front shock absorbers were gone, turned out after hours that it was simply a loose nut (no, not talking about Loris). All plans to visit Merv are postponed to tomorrow, when we will also need to cross into Uzbekistan, as visas are expiring.

ASHKHABAD – TURKMENISTAN 0 km (total 5690 km)

All the teams we convoyed moved on to the Uzbek border. But we preferred to spend the morning at the local market (yes, shopping for all of you, dear friends!), afternoon back in the city center, walking around at 45 C in a slightly surreal atmosphere.

Early start tomorrow to reach Merv, which is half way between Milan and Ulaan Baatar!

ASHKHABAD - TURKMENISTAN 127 km (total 5690km)

6th of August 2008

After the fourth night in a row without a shower, covered in dust, we got an invitation for dinner by the Italian honorary consul here. Prosciutto!

BAKHARDEN - TURKMENISTAN 499 km (total 5573km)

Turkmen customs are friendly but long, took 8 hours to clear. In convoy in the desert with four teams heading to Ashghabat. Stunning landscape and lots of camels. Turkmens are so far the most hostpitable, offering vodka at each stop. Had surprisingly good rabbit stew in the middle of nowhere.

SOMEWHERE ON THE CASPIAN

Yesterday was the longest custom to date- 6 hours, sailed by 7am. Having the whole boat for us and three other teams. Special mention to Soyombo team for negotiating the best deal ever for the ferry and cabins- after a half night negotiation with a slightly sleazy official. Turkmenistan awaits!

BAKU – AZERBAIJAN 0 km (total 5074 km)

Still in Baku, still waiting for the ferry. Number of teams at the dock is growing, we are so far 5 and counting, so plenty of company. We were also quite lucky not to make it for yesterday's ferry, as it is now anchored just outside Baku, unable to turn back for custom reasons and unable to sail forward due to the wind. Latest news is that we will leave at 4 am at night (?)

BAKU – AZERBAIJAN 0 km (total 5074 km)

Easy day in Baku – woke up late, saw two ferries leaving today for Turkenbashi. Did we miss our only chance to make it across for the next few days?

In just case, we are queuing up at the docks, and already stocked up with water and tuna cans for the usual whole day wait.

BAKU – AZERBAIJAN 356 km (total 5074 km)

Road condition have been the worse so far – a real mess for half of the journey here. Dirt tracks, pot holes and deformed tarmac, with deep trucks lanes that were really unkind on the poor R4…

Along the way, managed to find someone that gives a new whole meaning to the concept of overloading.

We are now in Baku, a great contrast with the rest of the country, an over-polished city. Met up a few teams and got a several hints on the ferry and waiting times. Verdict: I guess we are staying here for at least two extra days.

KIROVABAD - AZERBAIJAN - 297 KM (TOTAL 4718 KM)

Made to Azerbaijan, after a 2 hours wait at the border. Decided to play dumb at any request of 'tips' and 'gifts' and from now onward we are pretending to speak only Italian. So far it worked, we were even sent off by a soldier, telling us that IT IS important to learn a foreign language to travel!

We stopped in what might have been the only vineyard in the whole country - a producer 300 km north of Baku, which gave us two bottles of a surprisingly rich Shiraz - and Loris can vouch for that. We did thank them with a few rounds of Grappa.

Stopping over in Kirovabad, staying in this grand hotel with a slight CCCP flavour.

GORI – GEORGIA 441 km (total 4421 km)

Entered Georgia after a 2 hours wait at the border, not too bad considering that the separate queue for trucks was 8 km long. Despite all the efforts, we did not manage to reach Tbilisi. Continuous rain, a million cows resting in the middle lane, local driving habits and lack of signs played a major role in it. Ok, we also stopped to sample a few local wines…



Tomorrow we are going to try to make it as close as possible to Baku, getting ready to catch the ever-elusive ferry to Turkmenistan.

RIZE – TURKEY 350 km (total 3980 km)

First mechanical problem of the rally (broken gas cable does not count, as it was well before the official start). This morning poor R4 was sputtering and coughing, so had to stop at the Renault dealership, just outside Persembe, Koi Otomomotiv. They were simply the kindest people ever. Problem was at the end due to low-grade fuel, but they checked it, retuned it, test drove it, all for free. They even invited us for lunch and got us two hats, two stickers and two car fresheners as a sponsorship deal ;-)
Thank you guys!

Moved on to a monastery outside Rize for a cultural stop and a bit of wet-and-mud driving.

Tomorrow, to please the Resident Enologist/Driver, we will try to make it to South East of Georgia, smack in the wine-making region.

PERSEMBE – TURKEY 356 km (total 3630 km)

We stopped for lunch just after Samsun, and the local barber was telling us that in the last few days there have been plenty of other Mongol Rally teams passing by. To prove the point, two arrived and parked next to us the very same minute. Had lunch together, exchanged a few tips and stories (and discovered that you CAN travel to Mongolia just using the atlas you had in school), tried to take them to a beach nearby but we got hopelessly lost, so can’t blame them if they went on. Spent the rest of the day, well, by the beach.