ASHKHABAD – TURKMENISTAN 0 km (total 5690 km)

All the teams we convoyed moved on to the Uzbek border. But we preferred to spend the morning at the local market (yes, shopping for all of you, dear friends!), afternoon back in the city center, walking around at 45 C in a slightly surreal atmosphere.

Early start tomorrow to reach Merv, which is half way between Milan and Ulaan Baatar!

ASHKHABAD - TURKMENISTAN 127 km (total 5690km)

6th of August 2008

After the fourth night in a row without a shower, covered in dust, we got an invitation for dinner by the Italian honorary consul here. Prosciutto!

BAKHARDEN - TURKMENISTAN 499 km (total 5573km)

Turkmen customs are friendly but long, took 8 hours to clear. In convoy in the desert with four teams heading to Ashghabat. Stunning landscape and lots of camels. Turkmens are so far the most hostpitable, offering vodka at each stop. Had surprisingly good rabbit stew in the middle of nowhere.

SOMEWHERE ON THE CASPIAN

Yesterday was the longest custom to date- 6 hours, sailed by 7am. Having the whole boat for us and three other teams. Special mention to Soyombo team for negotiating the best deal ever for the ferry and cabins- after a half night negotiation with a slightly sleazy official. Turkmenistan awaits!

BAKU – AZERBAIJAN 0 km (total 5074 km)

Still in Baku, still waiting for the ferry. Number of teams at the dock is growing, we are so far 5 and counting, so plenty of company. We were also quite lucky not to make it for yesterday's ferry, as it is now anchored just outside Baku, unable to turn back for custom reasons and unable to sail forward due to the wind. Latest news is that we will leave at 4 am at night (?)

BAKU – AZERBAIJAN 0 km (total 5074 km)

Easy day in Baku – woke up late, saw two ferries leaving today for Turkenbashi. Did we miss our only chance to make it across for the next few days?

In just case, we are queuing up at the docks, and already stocked up with water and tuna cans for the usual whole day wait.

BAKU – AZERBAIJAN 356 km (total 5074 km)

Road condition have been the worse so far – a real mess for half of the journey here. Dirt tracks, pot holes and deformed tarmac, with deep trucks lanes that were really unkind on the poor R4…

Along the way, managed to find someone that gives a new whole meaning to the concept of overloading.

We are now in Baku, a great contrast with the rest of the country, an over-polished city. Met up a few teams and got a several hints on the ferry and waiting times. Verdict: I guess we are staying here for at least two extra days.